2013 Trip Blog,
May
Wednesday 1st May, Longreach, QLD
Up early today, as we decided to do a circuit South to Isisford, then East to Barcaldine then back West to Longreach. A total of around 370kms. First stop was Ilfracombe, 28kms East of Longreach. As you approach the town your attention is directed to the 'Great Machinery Mile' on the left, where a large assortment of machinery, vehicles, horse-drawn wagons and equipment is lined up, labelled and free to walk about the display. The display is aimed to provide a graphic timeline of pastoral evolution and certainly achieves this with the variety within the display, the condition of the vehicles and equipment and the attention to descriptions, timelines and stories that are depicted in the signage.
We reached Isisford, first explored by Major Thomas Mitchell in 1846. The town's population is around 200 but has never exceeded
300. Maybe it's the 'vibe' of the town which to us, was extremely 'low energy'. This has nothing to do with activity, quietness or peacefulness,
it's just an 'energy feel'. Some of you may think this a whacky statement but I'm sure some of you will definitely understand. We drove around
the roads surrounding the town but did not feel inclined to spend a lot of time here so headed back 40kms the way we came and turned left onto
a dirt track to Barcaldine. We were glad to get off the road as there must have been at least 2-3 dead kangaroos to every km. It wasn't a case of
dodge the dead kangaroo on this track but rather dodge the cow poo. Lovely fat, healthy cattle again along this route along with some very agile
emus, who rather than veering off the road, tried to outrun the Landy to cross over. With Don only going about 60kph they still passed him before
he had a chance to slow down.
Another sighting of two very large eagles perched on top of a kangaroo carcass. We approached very slowly but still missed out on a photo. With
a couple of hops to clear the carcass they spread their powerful wings and with only a few flaps they are already out of range before you can raise
your camera. We have tried pulling over and switching off to wait for them to return to the carcass but so far no luck, they turn their attention elsewhere.
They are not as silly as we are obviously.
We arrived in Barcaldine and the first thing that grabbed our attention was the huge dark brown square structure about four stories high, that looked
completely out of place in its surroundings. Closer inspection revealed the story behind the monstrosity. Housed underneath, set in a large stone slab
was a rather elegant looking dead tree. This tree, known as the 'Tree of Knowledge', which erks me to write this as the description now that I know the
history behind the naming of the tree; a rather presumptuous use of a biblical term for, of all things, a political party. After the shearers and pastoralists
industrial battle in 1891, the large Ghost Gum in the centre of Barcaldine came to symbolise this place and time in Australia's political development. It was
under this tree that an organisation was formed in 1891 that later became the Australia Labor Party. This tree received the highest possible heritage honour
on 26 January, 2006 when it was included in the National heritage List. In May 2006, the tree was poisoned and never recovered. The Barcaldine Council
received funding to preserve the tree and return it to its site. The 'architecturally designed' Memorial was officially opened on 2 May, 2009. This 'Memorial'
is so over-the-top it detracts from the trees humble and significant beginnings. The 'Memorial' does not cover or protect the tree from vandalism, but towers
not only over the tree, but over the whole town. Something more subtle would have given a far more effective memorial to this time and place in history,
without conjuring up comparisons with the performance of today's political parties. As to the rest of this small town, there are five Hotels, seven Motels and
three Caravan Parks so something must be a draw-card. Maybe it's the water, which is naturally filtered and is said to be some of the purest water in the State.
The first free-flowing Artesian Bore was sunk here in 1886.
Thursday 2nd May, Longreach, QLD
Having done a few Ks yesterday we opted for a lazy day today. It was 33° but with no cool breeze it felt a lot hotter. When Don went in to pick up a parcel the guy in the Post Office asked if he was working hard, Don replied, No, he was taking it easy. "Good day for it" the guy replied "it's cooling down".
It will probably be deemed 'cold' soon if it
gets down to the expected 31° in the next couple of days. Our bones are still thawing out from the Healesville summer.
Lunch again at the Eagle's Nest Bar & Grill, a very quick visit to a couple of stores then back into the air conditioned Landy
for a nice cool drive around the back streets again. (Don might have missed some old wreck or two). I took a pic of an old
fence post and Don photographed some old piece of junk. My pic made the cut this time. As we are situated just a short
distance from the Airport, it provides quite a few opportunities to get some great photos of Turbo Prop Aircraft, Helicopters
and other interesting flying machines that fly over our van. We are looking forward to sitting out at the Airport one afternoon in the hope that we will get a good shot.
Another rather interesting phenomenon is the huge flock of corellas that pass over at around 6pm every evening on their way
to Edkins Park. There must be at least a thousand birds in this flock. You can hear them coming long before you sight them as
their screeching is every bit as loud as the sulphur crested cockatoo. When they come into view it's quite an awesome sight as
they fly directly over the Park. You can almost set your watch to their fly over.I would just like to mention another small phenomenon that has invaded our camp. The dreaded Velcro. With not a lot of things to tinker with Don has discovered Velcro. He will even make a special trip down the street if he fears he may run short. It is quite amazing the uses he finds for this Velcro. My phone now sports a strip of Velcro that can be attached to the Landy above the Glove Box. My glasses also are adorned with a Velcro strip as they sit neatly below the Glove Box. The GPS sits proudly on the Dash, held firmly in place with Velcro. The awning has had its rope removed and now has neat Velcro strips attaching it to the pole. Inside the van the Computer Charger now has pride of place on the window sill, unmovable of course with its Velcro strip, the cords are no longer tangling our legs but sit firmly attached to underneath the table and the thermometer will never go anywhere now that it has been securely attached to the shelf above the fridge. I'm sure there are quite a few more things I have missed but my main concern is that I ensure I keep moving, as it's certain that if I stand still for any length of time I'll end up with a strip or two of Velcro attaching me to something.
Friday 3rd May, Longreach, QLD
Today we visited the Powerhouse Museum, the site of the original Power Station that was rescued from being torn
apart for scrap metal in 1989. This site houses an electrical industry collection that is rather unique. The building
itself is listed on the Queensland Heritage Register and the site on the Register of the National Estate. Apart from
the huge electrical industry collection there is also a growing collection depicting the social history relating to the
Longreach area.The site of the Power Station was selected because of the Artesian Bore located alongside providing the necessary water required to cool the large engines. The station ceased to operate in September 1985 when the area was linked to the Statewide grid. The Artesian Bore was drilled in 1897 and was the first guaranteed source of water for the town.
The extensive machinery display included a locomotive, old tractors, vehicles, farm machinery and other interesting
equipment. There was also a cottage on display circa 1918 which held a lot of memorabilia, some of which both Don and
I can remember being in our Grandparents houses. (I'm not sure I should admit this out loud.)Not much wind again today so it's better to keep moving and create your own breeze.
The last activity of the day produced a bit of a shock. Flipping up the lid of the toilet I was startled by two very large eyes
peering up at me from the bottom of the bowl. I must admit sometimes you discover some nasty surprises but this was not
quite what you would expect to see. I decided to try another cubicle and leave him to frighten some other poor soul. When
washing my hands I glanced down to discover another large frog under the basins. They were both quite large and very
green, definitely not a dreaded cane toad thank goodness. I carefully removed the one on the floor and placed him outside
but I drew the line at retrieving the one from the toilet bowl.
Saturday 4th May, Longreach, QLD
We tried a new spot for lunch today, a little arty cafe off the main drag. As well as meals they also have
a small assortment of art materials, brushes, paper, pencils etc.. I didn't realise just how much I miss painting
until I saw all those brushes just waiting to have paint splashed on them. I will have to get myself organised
soon and see what I can do. I miss painting very much.
After lunch we went for a drive down to the river then around the outskirts of the town. We drove down to the
The Pioneer Shed tucked down the end of a dirt track but not seeing anyone around we decided to head out
to the Airport and see if we could see a plane or two land. No luck, it looks like Saturday is not a good day for
flight watching so we headed back to camp. 
With the temperature dropping to 30° it was a good day to do a
bit of spring cleaning. "Maybe you'd like to go through all your stuff on the back seat of the Landy" said Don,
"we need to cut as much weight as possible, so get rid of anything you don't want." mmmmmm…….Sounded
like a good idea to me as I couldn't recall what I had on the back seat, so I obviously didn't need it. Two hours
later, with the ground littered with every conceivable knick knack you could ever hope to need laid out on the
floor in front of us, I stood there looking at my pathetic little pile of 'things' that was 'carrying too much weight' -
3 pens, 1 pkt of textas, 2 prs of glasses, a Sudoko book and a pr of gloves. "Yes Darling! That will certainly
reduce the weight" I said as I spent the next two hours helping Don sort and pack away all his necessary
items, like for instance,
13 half used rolls of insulation tape, 29 valve caps, 4 tape measures and of course the
numerous half used tubes of glue. When I protested about 'my weight bearing items' Don replied, "Well do you
really need 3 pens!! "
I just shook my head once more as I stuffed the broken tape measure, the now defunct shaving mirror, the 2 1/2 miles of unwanted cords, the now obsolete camera charger, used cable ties and 'spare' cable glands, nuts and bolts along with the pile of receipts and an old CB in a large rubbish bag and lugged it over to the bin. Oh……..and what was in there of mine? Nothing !!!
As we were repacking the boxes in the backseat of the Landy I spotted the tyre gauge sitting against the door jamb. Knowing Don wouldn't want to lose this I went to pick it up, only to find it Velcroed to the paneling! I had only just got over shaking my head over the two brooms which now sit velcroed to the side of the picnic table outside. We will need to move on soon or he will have to take up knitting or something.
Sunday 5th May, Longreach, QLD
A day of rest.Monday 6th May, Longreach, QLD
What an interesting day. We woke up early and found a Brolga wandering around just outside our van. Very
cautiously we grabbed our cameras for a photo but this Brolga wasn't going anywhere in a hurry and we were
able to get some good pics. The Brolga actually wandered about in our vicinity for about 3 hours and was not
in any way perturbed when you walked right up to it.Chores done, we headed down to the street to pick up a few things, like a new frying pan (for Sunday breakfast). Don likes to have everything 'just right', the eggs soft, the bacon crisp and the toast hot, so the timing is crucial. With only two burners on the go he looks like a juggler as he tosses one pan, jiggles the other and rotates the toast in between the two. Now with three burners, he can't wait until Sunday so he can try out his new 'system'. "Why don't I help him?" I hear you ask. Believe me, it would be like trying to tell Marco Pierre White how to boil an egg. I know my place on Sunday mornings and it's nowhere near the burners.
Lunch again at The Lazy Sheep, a really clean little cafe that serves good healthy food and excellent coffee then
back to the Post Office to see if my new (Lumix FZ200) camera had arrived. My old FZ50 (previously Don's) has finally given up
the ghost and won't focus properly so it was with great anticipation that we checked today, and bingo, a package
for me! 
I couldn't wait to try it out so we headed off on a dirt track West of Longreach and circled approx about 100klm to come
back out on the highway about 60kms North. This was a great drive!! We hadn't expected it to be so
interesting but there was so much wildlife and interesting old fences, tree stumps, ghost gums etc.. We got lucky
again and saw a pair of bustards. My new camera was put to the test when they took off in flight and I needed a
quick focus. It worked great. My thanks to Don for selecting it for me.
Tuesday 7th May, Longreach, QLD
We had intended to go for a drive out along one of the dirt tracks again today but with the wind blowing the dust about a bit we opted to stay in Longreach. We had thought of heading off for a week or so then coming back to meet up with Rob, Kirk & Soph on the 18th but as we are never sure which direction we may want to head next, it's better to stay put in Longreach, which is a very easy place to enjoy for an extended period of time.
We enjoyed lunch out again today at the Lazy Sheep and with me taking the opportunity to leave my
handbag back at camp (I hate handbags) Don had to reach for his wallet………everyone in the cafe
doubled up laughing when he rummaged in his pocket, pulled it out and flipped it open. Check out the
pic.
Back at camp, Don busied himself putting an insect screen on the front of the Landy and being outside, became 'visible'. Anyone that knows Don will know how uncomfortable he is talking to people he doesn't know so he usually blends in with the scenery or goes the 'long way around' to get anywhere if it means he can avoid getting engaged in conversation. Unable to 'hide' anywhere, he found himself involved in quite a long chat with another camper and his wife and almost needed resuscitating when he finally came inside to grab a coffee. We had a bit of a laugh about him now being a 'friendly camper' but he had no sooner gone outside again and a really nice 'older lady' came over to him to have a chat and give him a DVD she thought he might enjoy as she had already watched it. This involved another lengthy conversation. It was really nice of the lady and he was appreciative but his face when he came in was priceless. I have a feeling the 'outside' jobs will be on the back-burner for a day or two. I would like to clarify for those who don't have the benefit of knowing Don, that he is not anti-social he is just uncomfortable. For those that do know him, this is just part of his wonderful character.
Speaking about camp, we have now been here for 3 weeks so have seen a lot of different people come and go, usually only staying a day or two. Out of all these campers the new arrivals from South Australia must surely take the prize for 'the couple that is most able to transport their entire house with them'. Under their awning sits more cases, boxes, buckets and paraphernalia that we put into storage when we moved!! I guess some people have more 'you can't leave home without it' than others. This is not a criticism just a curiosity to someone who was castigated for having 3 pens!
Apologies for the blog being a bit light on in interest but being stationary it's a bit more difficult to find new and interesting things to write about. We will be hitting the road again on the 20th May so hopefully will be able to provide some more variety than having lunch at the Lazy Sheep Cafe.
Wednesday 8th May, Longreach, QLD
Washing is such an easy chore here, wash, hang out and about an hour later bring in, fold up and put away. With chores out of the way we headed down the street to the Hardware Store. We had been toying with the idea of buying a larger fridge to put in the Landy but after looking at it again, neither of us could see the sense in spending hundreds of dollars for something that was not only going to take up space but for all the bulk it had very little storage capacity. So, we opted for the next best thing………a small insulated cooler bag and an ice pack. Total cost….$17.95. We put our small fridge on freeze and within half an hour the pack was frozen. This went into the cooler bag with our sandwiches and worked a treat.
We had been justifying buying the larger fridge saying we could use the smaller one for all the fish Don was
going to catch but there might be a couple of later models out by then, so for now we will use the cooler bag.
We fuelled up and headed West again along the same track we went the other day only this time we didn't
turn North but continued West. Another great day for spotting wildlife, walking to the tops of a couple of hills
and taking some really nice pics. The emus we spotted were large and fat, the largest we have seen to date.
There was the usual cattle, kangaroos, wild goats and a couple of dead wild pigs. We haven't spotted a live
one of these yet. We also were lucky enough to come across a pair of Brolgas. Such beautiful, elegant birds.
The landscape was fairly similar most of the way, flat, stony and scrubby with sparse medium sized trees,
including some very nice Ghost Gums, but there were many places which grabbed our interest. The sight of
a large windmill atop a large dam provided an opportunity for a walk. Once on top of the dam wall you could
appreciate the plight of the cattlemen in this region; there has been no rain to speak of since about March 2012.
The dam had very little water in it but was still providing good clear water to fill the large water troughs below.
Further on, a climb up a rocky outcrop was rewarded with a fantastic view of the surrounding countryside. It is
quite amazing how far you can see from what would be considered a reasonably small hill. On the way back, we
stopped many times to have a look around as there were so many interesting things along this route. The original
old telegraph poles, now redundant and lying where they had fallen with an insulator or two still attached that gave
hint to the many stories that must have passed through the wires that now lay broken and curled around the top of
the pole.
Friday 10th May, Longreach, QLD
We left camp early today and headed North along the East Muttaburra Road then turned right onto the dirt track
that leads to the Lily Lagoon. We will definitely visit the Lagoon again before we leave Longreach but kept
on North for about 45 kms to check out a nearby landmark known locally as 'Captain Starlight's Lookout' but
geographically as Cassidy's Knob. The track was good with very changeable scenery enroute. Being Channel
Country, the landscape is contrasted from stoney ground with dry yellowed tussocks to strips of lush green grass
with shrubbery and moist soil. One minute the landscape opens up before you to show a treeless horizon broken
only by a few long, low escarpments then over the rise and down a dip and you are immediately driving through a
lush green area with low green shrubs. No sooner are you marvelling at the change in landscape than over the
rise and around a bend and once more you are gazing at vast flat, yellow fields all the way to the horizon.
The cattle are always worth a stop and a photo as they huddle together under the shade of the trees. The cows look
at you gently with mild curiosity and barely flicker an eyelash, the old bulls stare warily, the young bulls stare, snort and
pace about. Life is not so different in the animal world.
We arrived at Starlight's Lookout, a small rocky outcrop 211.7m high with a diameter of about 1km. The area is flat
and open and with Cassidy's Knob being the only protrusion for miles you can understand why it was used as a lookout
point for Henry Readford, a cattle duffer who stole over 1000 head of cattle in 1869 and drove them from QLD to SA to sell.
Ignoring the criminal nature of his actions his amazing feat in droving these cattle over such a distance was hailed as legendary
and accorded him so much sympathy from the locals that when apprehended and tried for his crime, the jury found him 'not guilty'
despite the overwhelming evidence presented against him. He later went on to become one of the great drovers of his time. He
finally met his end when he drowned in Corella Creek in the Northern Territory in 1901.
After driving around the base of the outcrop, Don climbed to the top. With the ground rocky and uneven, I was left at the bottom to
watch with envy as Don clambered up the rocky path, now and again slipping on the loose rocks. This ankle is definitely giving me
a lesson in patience.
After a good wander around we enjoyed a nice hot cup of coffee before getting back onto the track and continuing
North. There was plenty of wildlife to look at including a group of four brolgas. Brolgas are monogamous and usually mate for life; the
group most likely consisted of the two parents and their juvenile offspring. When we reached the junction in the track we stopped under
some shady trees for lunch then continued on North for about 10 kms before turning West. Our map showed the track heading West past
Westbury Station and out onto the West Muttaburra Road but half way along we ended up at Westbury Homestead.
Reversing back from
the homestead, we were deciding which route to take back to Longreach when the Manager of the property rode up on his trail bike. As this
was private property (15km x 15km) he was surprised that the track was shown on our map. Never-the-less he was extremely helpful and
said we could drive around past the homestead and get onto their 'driveway' and 11kms on it would take us out onto the Muttaburra Road.
We chatted for about 20 mins then headed off. Once out onto the West Muttaburra Road we turned South for 76kms back to Longreach.
Sunday 12th May, Longreach, QLD
What an exquisite day. A wonderful Mother's Day phone call starting it off just right. We had risen early and got our washing etc. out of the way in anticipation of heading South to Lochern National Park. Don cooked up an especially delicious breakfast and spoiled me with doing the cleaning up as well. After breakfast we reevaluated our plans and decided we preferred a more relaxed day rather than a 200-300km drive. The breakfast had made us both a bit lazy. So the Lily Lagoon on the Thomson River won out over the Lochern National Park being only about 10km from Longreach.
The day was perfect, beautiful sunshine, 32° and a cool gentle breeze. Much better for sitting by a river. When
we reached the Lily Lagoon, although we had been here before, we were surprised at just how peaceful it was.
There was a gentle ripple on the water from the slight breeze, sending the reflections dancing in the sunlight. We
found a great spot to park right near the water's edge with a nice open spot to boil the billy and a convenient log to
park our backsides. No ants, no flies, nothing to annoy the peacefulness of the surroundings.
How beautiful…..as we sipped our coffee we sat in silence just watching the dragonflies hovering about above the water,
the many and varied butterflies flitting about amongst the brush and the myriad of birds enjoying the riches that the river
provided. There were a couple of ducks out in the centre of the river with their heads tucked under their wings, bobbing
along with the flow of the river. A couple more industrious ducks swam swiftly along the water's edge, ducking their heads
under every now and again and emerging with a small prize in their beaks. A Great White Crane flew down with wings spread
wide and landed gracefully on a dead tree trunk in the water. About 50m along a Heron stood tall on an outstretched branch
and cocked his head from side to side as he watched the water. How could a body hold any tension in such beautiful surroundings.
Don finished his coffee and with a burst of enthusiasm decided he would give 'fishing' another go and baited up his line. If 'casting'
your line won you a prize then surely Don could claim one. It's such a shame that such a perfect 'cast' isn't what bags the fish. But
today wasn't really a 'fishing' day.
We both knew, without needing to exchange words, that casting his line was just an excuse for us
to sit there idly doing nothing but enjoying the day. Somehow having a fishing line propped up on a stick at the edge of the water gives
you all the reason in the world to just sit there without having to think about doing anything else.
Of course we both had our cameras in
our hands and clicked away when something new appeared……..a different shadow on the water, the heron cocking his head to the right
rather than to the left, the Great White Heron flapping his wings then settling again. Thank goodness for Digital Cameras. We were rewarded
though as a little duckling swam swiftly past within meters from us, circling around, ducking his head under then swimming confidently downstream.
Then another beautiful little bird of which I don't know the name, ran quickly along the water's edge on his long white spindly legs and stopped right
in front of us for a minute or so before running off again.
A loud crashing could be heard from the other side of the river, like an elephant trampling through the brush and shortly a large cow emerged from
the trees and stooped to drink from the river. This may all sound mundane but taking it all in context with the most peaceful surroundings and the sun
shining and dancing on the water, it was rather a magic day.
Not wanting the day to end, we stopped off at the vantage point to the Airfield and waited to spot the incoming Qantas 1600 flight. As we waited a bloke came walking towards us along the dirt track beside the Airfield, accompanied by two dogs at his side. As he came closer we noticed he had bare feet; something we have learnt not to do around camp after picking up a thorn or two. He came up to us and enquired if we were waiting for a plane to fly over and if so, there would be one coming across any minute as the vehicle had just gone out to clear the roos off the runway. He explained this was a usual occurrence with the 'bird gun' also having to be used at times to clear the multitude of birds that gathered. We ended up chatting to him for almost an hour, interrupted only by some quick shots of the Qantas Dash-8 Turboprop as it flew overhead.
quite a character and being a local was involved in just about everything in the town. He gave us some great stories on the local history, including the
day the Qantas 747 landed in Longreach to take its place at the Qantas Museum. The roads were closed and everyone held their breath as the large Jet
landed on the very inadequate runway. 
His eyes glistened and his face broke into a huge smile as he recalled the days events. We eventually said our
Goodbyes and watched as he trudged up the hill with his dogs trotting by his side. How remiss we didn't get his name but we thank him for his friendliness
and the generosity of his time.The day ended as wonderful as it started with Don cooking a really nice dinner for us……and doing the dishes. How spoilt I was today. Thank you Don.
P.S. No fish, just a few long strands of weed caught on the line and then…….no hook, no line, no sinker, no bait. But Don DOES cast well!!
(EDIT, by Don). … No Wonder I never catch any fish, I was checking todays photos, one of the nice little Duck. I looked, then looked again more closely, bloody hell... is that a little fish hanging from its mouth ????
Monday 13th May, Longreach, QLD
A really good day for the farmers as a few sprinkles this morning turned into rain by late afternoon. The temperature dropped from a warm 27° to a cool 18° by 1730 and had the locals rushing the Hardware Store for heaters. Coming from Healesville we didn't find it quite as cold as the Queenslanders and other than the slight inconvenience of the rain we found it very pleasant.
I was glad I had booked last week for a massage today as there wasn't a lot we could do outdoors. We have had such
beautiful weather the entire time we have been in Longreach so definitely no complaints from us. Don and I are still in
Tee Shirts as apart from the overcast sky and a small spattering of rain it is still 20°. Glancing out the window I noticed
a fellow walking past with a huge heavy coat and a beanie on, his hands tucked into his pockets and the collar pulled
high up around his neck. 
Must be a Queenslander Don commented. I guess you can tell the Victorians, they are still
in Tee Shirts and shorts.
On the way out of camp to head down the street earlier today there were two brolgas wandering around the camp as well as a couple of kangaroos. Down the street we had seen a 'roo truck', a Toyota 70 series tray with the apparatus on the back with hooks on the side of it from which to hang the kangaroos they had shot; back at camp we watched as people ooohhhhed and aahhhhhed over the cute little kangaroos and joeys that hopped about the camp. The stark contrasts of life.
Tuesday 14 May, Longreach, QLD
A little bit overcast today but no rain and a nice 22 degrees. We decided today was a good day for Don to have a haircut. We thought it better to cut it away from the camp as we didn't want hair blowing all over the place so we headed off to the street to see if we could find some quiet spot. Not finding anywhere really appropriate around town we took the Stonehenge Road South then turned off on the Tip Road thinking there may be some quiet little spot where we could pull in under a tree. We hadn't been on this road before and hadn't counted on it being so interesting.
We hadn't anticipated going anywhere but down the street and as it was almost 1400 we were both getting a bit hungry so we
grabbed a bit of lunch at the local pub before heading back to camp. We normally keep to ourselves in camps but we had met
this really nice couple Ron and Judy, with whom we shared a lot in common and ended up having a great chat and a glass of
wine before heading back to our van for tea. Thank you Ron & Judy, I don't think you realised how much we enjoyed your company.
P.S. No, Don didn't end up getting his hair cut and will need to plait it soon if I don't get the scissors out.
Wednesday 15th May, Longreach, QLD
Rob's arrival Saturday is now in doubt because of flight availability for his return on Sunday evening.
This is extremely disappointing but we are thinking positive. As time will be short when he arrives we
decided to do the tour of the Qantas Museum today.
This will allow Rob to complete the tour if it's a bit
much for Sophie (and of course allow us to devote all our time to her!)Well, what a great day!! The Qantas Museum has a great reputation and certainly didn't disappoint. It is extremely well done and full of interest. The historical presentations, both by display and by footage are excellent. The static displays are laid out well with great authenticity.
There are four movie presentations. One in the theatre inside the Central Museum, a DVD presentation
within the main hall retracing the original trek by Hudson Fysh and McGuinness from Western Qld to Darwin
looking for suitable sites for airfields, another video presentation in an ante room showing the landing of the
747 at Longreach in 2002 and a film presentation narrated by Hudson Fysh outlining the history and beginnings
of Qantas, located in the original Qantas Hanger. All of these presentations are excellent, all different and all
well worth the time to watch. They are also well spaced out around the Museum enabling you to enjoy each
one without them being too long.
We spent over 4 hrs in the Museum and could have spent longer. It is definitely a great asset for Longreach, especially with the Red tail and White Kangaroo so prominent on the landscape and being so close to town. This is definitely one tourist attraction we would recommend. It is an honest, authentic depiction of an integral part of Australia's early history.
Thursday 16th May, Longreach, QLD
A bit over-cast today with a small sprinkling of rain. We went down to the street to the Eagles Nest Bar & Grill again
for lunch then made a decision that today was definitely hair cutting day. We decided the Lilly Lagoon would be
the best place, even if the rain didn't hold off it was always a great place to sit and watch the birds. Enroute we
had to cross the railway line out near the sale yards and took the opportunity to take a few photos of a cattle train
backing up to the yards.
It was still sprinkling a bit when we reached the Lilly Lagoon so we opted for a cup of coffee whilst we watched the
activity on the river. Ducks, herons, egrets, pelicans, they were all there today. The rain didn't last long so once our
coffee was finished it was out with the scissors for the long-awaited hair-cut. I had just begun cutting when I looked
up to see about eight bulls only about 15ft from me. 
I think they had come to the river to drink as we were parked where
there was easy access to the water. They just stood there staring at us, not quite knowing what to do. As we were in their
direct path to the river they decided to move on, all except one, the biggest bull, he just stood there for quite a bit longer
just staring at us. He eventually moved on with the others.
Before heading off, Don decided to drop his new 'bait trap' into the water's edge to see if he could catch some bait. Not having
done this before he wasn't sure what to put in it but found the perfect 'lure'…….a can of 'Turkey Spam' that was bought in error, neither
of us willing to eat it. Cutting off a large chunk he popped it inside the little net envelope inside the trap and tossed it into the water.
With that we set off on our walk. The lilies were still out but being overcast, the beauty of the water could not be captured by camera.
As well as the birdlife there were numerous kangaroos hopping about amongst the trees, their little joeys by their side. The Lilly Lagoon
is definitely one of our favourite places. It is so peaceful yet so full of activity.
We got back to the Landy and Don, full of anticipation, went to retrieve his 'bait trap'. I almost dropped my camera in fright when I
heard Don let out a loud shout…….."What's wrong?" I yelled back. "I've caught my first fish!!" he screamed out at me excitedly.
"In the bait trap?" I asked puzzled. I rushed over to where he was standing triumphantly, holding up the bait trap for me to have a
look inside. I tried hard to suppress my laughter as he was so excited at his 'first catch' but it was difficult. There inside the netted trap
was a tiny fish about an inch long. I think his eye was the biggest part of him. We both stood there looking at it then I grabbed my
camera to get a pic. "Hurry up" Don said urgently. "It might die". I took a few quick photos then Don quickly put the bait trap into the
water again. "Is that bait?" I asked. "I think so" he replied. We both looked at each other and the memory of the little fish inside that
trap sprang to mind. Next thing Don is hauling the trap back out of the water. He unzipped the net, reached in, grabbed the little fish
then tossed it into the water. "I think I'll try some other bait" he said. What a great fisherman my husband is. I can't wait to see his
reaction when he actually catches a big one.
Friday 17th May, Longreach, QLD
Longreach Show Day………a big day for the town with all shops closed, a lot supporting the event
with stalls at the Showgrounds. The entrance fee of $10 per Adult was extremely reasonable. We
arrived about 1130 and stayed until about 1430. What a great atmosphere…there is nothing like a
Country Show for a good day out.
The bulls were magnificent….huge, big muscled and glossy. Such powerful animals being led gently
around the arena. Standing next to these huge beasts is quite an awesome feeling.
There was quite a variety of animals on show for the children, all penned together where they could
interact with them. One of the high-lights of the day was the 'Pig Race'. The little pigs were so cute, with
sequinned saddles and toy puppets atop. This was a lot of fun. Don unfortunately, was standing in the
right place at the wrong time and got chosen to be the 'Judge'. Those lucky enough to draw a pig in the
race were asked to give it a name for the race. Don was asked to choose the best name……………his
selection was a young boy's choice of 'Crackling'. Next Don was asked to judge the winner of the actual
race. Seems easy but it was almost a dead-heat so Don had to have his wits about him.
We sat in the Grandstand with a cup of coffee and watched the Dressage and Show Jumping. It was really
pleasant. The atmosphere was relaxed and casual. The large City Shows offer far more to look at and participate
in, more rides, more pavilions, more of everything but people get tired and grumpy and 'over it' long before they
have managed to look at everything, especially if they have a couple of children in tow. 
This was just enough to
get around, see and enjoy.
We were really glad that the Longreach Show happened to fall within the period of our visit. A really nice day !
EDIT, (by Don) … Val forgot to mention that when we got home she made another excellent 'Bread & Butter Pudding' in the Cobb Cooker, If it was presented at the Longreach Show would have won a Blue Ribbon for sure !!
Sunday 19th May, Longreach, QLD
Great weekend!! Rob, Kirk & Sophie arrived at last. Their flight landed at Longreach at 1130,
right on time, but not without mishap on the way. After a touch down in Barcaldine (half hour flight
time from Longreach) the take-off had to be aborted until they had cleared birds from the runway.
But it was a happy reunion when we saw them walk through the doors from the tarmac, their happy
smiling faces lit up our day.
We spent a great weekend together. The time was organised well and we were able to fit in quite a
few activities without any rush. The Qantas Museum, The Stockman's Hall of Fame and the Lilly Lagoon
were among the highlights. It was great that the Brolgas and the Kangaroos were wandering around the
Park during their stay which delighted Sophie; she mustered all her courage and stood alongside one of
the Brolgas, quite a feat for a little girl as their beaks are very long and quite scary when up close. Her
attempts to stand next to a kangaroo however were not as successful but she got fairly close, creeping up
one step at a time. She was so cute to watch. There was also plenty of birdlife out at the Lilly Lagoon as
well as a small flock of emus. We had a lot of fun together but it was all too short.
"I just know we won't be staying" she said with a sad little face. She sat there
with her fingers crossed hoping that the plane would be full. At the last moment, we saw her bag being put aboard and
tickets being issued. Of course there were mixed feelings; I was glad they could travel back together but sad that they
were all leaving. Just as quickly as they had arrived they had departed, waving their last Goodbyes as they walked out
onto the tarmac. The four weeks wait in Longreach had been well worth it…………We drove down the dirt track alongside
the Airport to watch their plane take off, then drove back to camp feeling a bit subdued. Time is such an enigma……….moments are gone so quickly.
Monday 20th May, Hughenden, QLD
A few mixed feelings today as we packed up to leave Longreach. We found ourselves dawdling around a bit disorganised, not the usual amount of efficiency we usually have when packing up camp. We finally drove out the gate of the Park around 1015, stopping off at the Supermarket to stock up on supplies and taking the opportunity for one last coffee at our favourite Cafe, the Lazy Sheep.
We stopped for lunch at 1330 with the temperature nudging 39.4°c. We were stopped on a very slight
rise that afforded us a 360° view of the horizon. With the silence, the sunshine and surrounded by nothing but
nature it was indeed bliss. We enjoyed our Roast Pumpkin and Brown Rice Salad (take away from the Lazy Sheep)
then continued on, stopping for coffee and a break about 1600 then arriving in Hughenden at 1730. No time to take
a look around the town this afternoon but it looks to be a very interesting place.
Tuesday 21st May, Hughenden, QLD
Even before I was fully awake this morning I was aware I was somewhere different. Strange how you get used to the noises around you even if you are unaware of it. I miss the birds. They were quite prolific at Longreach. This Park is quite a lot smaller but well laid out which allows plenty of room. It is situated right opposite the railway station. Contrary to a lot of people, Don and I love to hear the sounds of the trains coming and going, the cars being shunted in the rail yards and the long, deep horn as the train passes through.
Hughenden is only a small town of 1794 residents and is situated on the edge of a pre-historic inland sea. Once
home to many dinosaurs and marine reptiles, making the area well known as 'Dinosaur Country'. When we went
to Muttaburra and saw the sign…'Home of the Muttaburrasauras'…..in our ignorance we thought it was just a made-up
name to promote the dinosaur finds in the area, we are now better informed and were quite amazed to find out that this
is the actual name of the Dinosaur found in the Muttaburra area, its skeleton now housed in the Brisbane Museum. It was
interesting to learn that this Shire has four different Bioregions within its borders. This explains the variety of landscape
we have travelled through.
Today we became acquainted with the 'Muttaburrasauras' at the Flinders Discovery Centre in Hughenden. This is the
local Information Centre as well as a really interesting Museum which houses a full-size replica of the Muttaburrasauras.
We spent quite a bit of time in the Museum before getting some lunch and heading North on the Basalt Byway, a 100km
4wd loop that winds through deep meandering valleys and rocky basalt fields. We only encountered one other vehicle on
this route, a two truck road train. When these big boys come towards you, it is always prudent to get right off the road and
give them plenty of room. No chance of winding down your windows for about 5km or you'll be eating their dust all the way.
Although we sighted very little wildlife the drive was full of interest. Beautiful ghost gums, their white trunks stark in the sunlight
stood out amongst the other foliage. Brightly coloured pink wildflowers provided a splash of colour here and there on the extensive
bare black basalt fields. Don captured 'pic of the day' with his photo of an amazingly coloured beetle on one of these wildflowers.
Don also took a great pic of a wasps nest, nestled neatly in the hollow of a large basalt rock which he discovered when we stopped
for coffee.
I'd forgotten about the 'Cattle Gates' on these outback properties but memories soon came flooding back as we neared our first one
and Yes, it was me who has the job of opening and closing them.
I actually enjoy this little job, but for some reason Don seems to enjoy
it just that bit more as he sits up straighter in his seat and smiles smugly as he drives slowly past, then sits and waits while I struggle with
the two halves of the gate and the chain. Most are alright but you get the odd one that when you close one side and let it go to close the
other side, the first side swings back open again. It takes some technique to close one side then dash to the other one and get back to
the middle before the first one swings open again. It always amazes me how Don never wonders why I am so long shutting the gate…..
or does he? I hop back in the Landy and eye him suspiciously but he just smiles at me lovingly……….. but the smile always remains
on his face far too long. I think he finds this much too amusing to hop out and help me.
We had only gone a few meters after I had come back from shutting one of these gates when we were startled by four horses cantering
fast towards us and stopping only a few feet from the Landy. Don opened his window and a beautiful chestnut came right up to him and
put her head in the window. Don turned off the Landy and patted her for quite a few minutes before we started off again. How beautiful
the moment was.
Just one of those precious moments you can't orchestrate.
We continued on through the valleys and up to the Lookout
that over-looked the downs area. It was quite a spectacular view with the township of Hughenden just visible in the distance. The afternoon
sun cast long shadows across the track as we made our way back to town. A great time for photographs.
Wednesday 22nd May, Hughenden, QLD
A good day to go for a drive today as it was 32° and quite windy, so not too good for walking about outside.
The town is very small so there is only so much you can do in the main street. We headed off about 1030 and
took the Kennedy Development Road (sealed) then turned off onto the Flinders Rivers Byway, a 4WD dirt track
that winds around and joins up with the Flinders Highway at Prairie, a small town, population 50.
Not far along into our drive we came across some Camels grazing quite close to the road. They were not timid
so we were able to get quite a few photos before moving on. The local farmers agist camels on their land to eat
the Prickly Acacia, an extremely aggressive shrub that causes massive problems. Unlike cattle who pass the seeds
after eating this shrub, the camels digest it completely therefore inhibiting the spread. They also utilise goats for the
same reason. The goats work well with the camels as they feed from the lower part of the tree and the camels feed
from the top. Each year, Hughenden hosts The Great Hughenden Camel Endurance Challenge, a race held over a
distance of 150 km over 2 days with a prize purse of $50,000. Contestants travel from far and wide to compete in this
race.
We met Tom, the Manager and enjoyed quite a yarn with him over a pie and a beer. Tom is quite a collector
as is obvious by the many forms of memorabilia he has adorning every space available. Old worn out saddles hang
over the weathered hitching rails outside along with other vintage pieces of equipment, toys, or just something that looks
old. Inside, the ceiling of the bar is covered with well-worn, sweat stained stockman's hats and the walls are strewn with
old rabbit traps, sythes, chain saws, stuffed heads of various animals and other assorted bits and pieces. An old shelf holds
three old jars and a whisky bottle filled with spirits to preserve the dead snakes curled up within. An old Dentist's Chair has
pride of place in front of the bar with a free 'dental job' thrown in if needed. Prairie was the main horse change centre for Cobb & Co Coaches in the 1870's until the Great Northern Railway reached Prairie in 1887. The Prairie Pub dates from around this time.
Thanking Tom for a most enjoyable and entertaining lunch we headed back to Hughenden. The temperature had dropped a few degrees and the wind had picked up, with a strong smell of dust in the air but no rain. The Flinders River which runs through Hughenden is the longest river in QLD and the sixth longest river in Australia. Interesting that the Flinders River starts its journey in the Burra Ranges, part of the Great Dividing Range about 110 kms North East of Hughenden, flows in a Westerly direction and then North West, finally flowing into the Gulf of Carpentaria, 25 km West of Karumba.
Thursday 23rd May, Winton, QLD
The air was crisp and fresh this morning after some reasonable rain last night. It had been
nice laying in bed, going to sleep to the sound of the rain hitting the roof of the van. We awoke
early and left Hughenden at 0830, taking the Kennedy Development Road to Winton, 216 km SW.Although sealed, the first 30 km or so was like riding the waves as we bounced up and down with the
deep undulations in the road but overall, the road was quite good. There is a lot of road-work being
done closer to Winton, which should make this an excellent road when it's completed.
We stopped for a coffee at Olio, approx 57 km North of Winton, a former Railway Siding for the line between
Hughenden and Winton, The 212 km track was laid down in 1899 and helped open up the region but with declining
freight movement it was deemed uneconomical and was pulled up in 2008 and funding diverted to upgrading the roads.
A total of 320,000 sleepers were removed, 200,000 being recycled. Piles of the remaining sleepers can be seen in various
places along the now disused track which runs parallel with the current road. It's always interesting to stop at these old sidings,
although there is not much left at all of this one.
It was not long after leaving Olio that we witnessed a sickening sight. A large truck had passed us just as we were leaving the
Olio Siding and was not too far in the distance. We were only about 400 meters behind when I noticed a large object on the
road. It looked like a very large kangaroo with its leg in the air (as is often the case when they are hit). As we neared, it became
apparent that it wasn't a kangaroo but a large emu, sitting almost upright. There were fresh remains scattered not far from it, it had
no legs. The saddest sight was it's mate wandering around in circles near it, just off the side of the road and there were about
eight chicks hovering a bit further back. It was a sickening and sad sight but we could do nothing. Road-kill is a fact of life but when
you know emus mate for life and you see first-hand the distress of it's mate, especially when they had a family of chicks, it was really,
really sad. I had to put this in the blog even though some may think it distasteful. Emus have families too and display all the signs of
distress when their mates are killed. It was terrible to witness and very upsetting.
Nearing Winton, tabletops and large cone shaped hills could be seen on the horizon. These hills consisted of red, rocky soil with
very little greenery on them. It was quite a picturesque sight. Quite odd too, the way they rose up from the surrounding flat ground.
These were located in the area of Rangelands. We arrived in Winton around 1230, population approx 1300 and located the Caravan
Park. We are quite anxious to get out and camp in the bush somewhere but with so much to see around Winton this will have to wait
for awhile. It's difficult to leave your van in the middle of nowhere to go off exploring.
Friday 24th May, Winton, QLD
A cool wind today but still sunny and bright with the temperature around 22°. With our chores done
we headed down the Longreach Road for 11 km then turned off South onto a dirt road 11 km to the
Australian Age of Dinosaurs Museum.
What a great surprise. This Museum is situated on top of a 'jump up', a large sandstone escarpment
about 80 meters high that provides an amazing outlook over the surrounding grasslands. The Museum
itself has been skilfully designed to blend in with the surrounding rocks; 
the architecture is modern and
textured and sits comfortably amongst the surrounding scrub and rocky outcrops. A life-size bronze statue
of a carnivorous dinosaur greeted us at the front entrance. It was free-standing and looked almost alive as
you walked towards it.
Inside the Museum is also extremely well designed. Once past the Reception, wide folding doors open out to take full advantage of the amazing views of the valley below. You hardly feel like you are in a building at all. With half an hour to wait for the next tour, we had a coffee and enjoyed the sunshine and the view. We were very pleasantly surprised to find such an amazingly professional Museum, 11 km up a dirt road and in the middle of open country. A real credit to all involved in achieving the realisation of this wonderful Museum.
The first half of the tour consisted of a video presentation shown in the temperature controlled viewing room (23°)
that housed the actual bones of the dinosaurs dug up from the surrounding area. This is the only Museum in the
World that has actual bones on display for the public to view. The bones were laid out in such a manner as was easy
to understand their relationship to the entire skeleton. The video presentation complimented the display and gave easy
to understand explanations of the bones and the skeleton in its entirety. The graphics were amazingly life-like and
once the skeleton was explained, the outer skin was added along with the movement of the creatures walking or
running movement.
The half hour before the second half of the tour began, allowed a leisurely stroll 500 meters along the rim of the
escarpment to the large Laboratory which housed the actual bones that had been dug up and were presently being
worked on to free the bone from the surrounding matrix. This walk alone could have been a highlight to the drive here.
The pathway to the Laboratory wound its way around the rim and gave an excellent chance to appreciate the view
along the way. With a few minutes to spare before the tour began, we sat on logs over-looking the dirt road far below
from where we had driven; the view was really breath-taking.
Saturday 25th May, Winton, QLD
Today we headed to the Lark Quarry Conservation Park where the Dinosaur Stampede National Monument
is located about 110 km SW of Winton. The road is dirt most of the way but we couldn't dawdle on the way down
because we had dawdled before we left, not realising until we were on our way that the tour began at Noon. We
arrived at the Dinosaur Stampede National Monument with about 6 minutes to spare.
The large shed that houses and protects the Dinosaur Footprints from the elements was made of steel, skilfully
designed and environmentally friendly. With this being the only recorded site of a Dinosaur Stampede in the world, it
was extremely important to take measures to preserve the site. The Conservation Park where it is located is an added
bonus for anyone traveling the distance to visit the Monument. There is a 30 minute Walking Trail that winds around
the escarpment and provides a wonderful opportunity to take in the peacefulness of the place and enjoy the wonderful
environment of the Australian Outback. There is also a 3.5 hr Walk that is more suited for the experienced walker or those
with the time to complete the trail.
The tour was very informative and extremely interesting. Bill, our guide, was not phased by the few obtuse questions that were thrown at him and was able to bring the dinosaur stampede to life as he explained the most likely scenario of how the footprints came about and how this conclusion was reached by the experts. It was a fascinating experience and quite humbling, to be standing in the very place that this stampede took place 95 million years ago. Just how these footprints came to be preserved after such a long time was equally as interesting. The changes that have occurred in this region over eons is well worth more study as the history of the ancient Australian landscape is fascinating in its diversity.
The finding of the Dinosaur Stampede Site was of great importance in learning how the Dinosaurs moved. Steven Spielberg sent an expert out to study them when making Jurassic Park in order to give as much realism to the Dinosaurs as possible. Prior to this find, it was thought that the Dinosaurs walked one foot beside the other, but after studying the gait of the footprints it was found that they step one foot across the other like a chook. This was quite a revelation. The Dinosaurs featured in Jurassic Park are depicted in this way because of the information gleaned from this site.
After the tour we enjoyed the 30 minute walk then had a picnic lunch before heading off. We turned West after about 10 kms and took
the Cork Mail Road,
a dirt track that leads West to the Old Cork Ruins or turns North past Carisbrooke Station, a working sheep and
cattle station set among the spectacular mesa country of the Cory Range and Williams Valley. We were contemplating staying at the
Station then heading down to the Diamantina River but will probably head North tomorrow.
Traveling down the Cork Mail Road proved
a huge bonus !! We have been lucky enough to see a few pairs of Wedged-tailed Eagles along the way but not lucky enough to be quick
enough to photograph them; this time we were. How exciting…..there were a pair feasting on a kangaroo carcass. As we drew near we
were sure they would fly away but to our surprise, one flew off but the other one just hopped about 10ft from the carcass and stayed put.
I was so excited I couldn't turn my camera on. Don slowed almost to a stop then pulled over to the other side of the road, still the Eagle
stood his ground as if to lay claim to the carcass. It was like a Mexican stand-off; the eagle didn't move and we didn't move, just kept clicking
away. The Eagle's mate had flown to a nearby tree and was waiting to see the outcome. We decided to leave them in peace, feeling really
appreciative about the photographs we were able to get.
We left the dirt track and turned East on the Outback Way (Kennedy Development Road) for about 35 kms, stopping along the way to look at
the remnants of the failed Transcontinental Railway that was begun in 1920. The first 30 km of the Outback Way has actually been laid on the
now defunct track. Well, our luck was certainly in today. We were already so chuffed about getting the photos of the Wedged-tailed Eagles, so
we were doubly excited when along this route we saw about 8 wild piglets, no big ones with them, a flock of 5 Brolgas that flew across the road
in front of us and a couple of Feral Cats chewing on a bird carcass.
We hit the Landsborough Highway and turned East for Winton, a round trip of around 250 kms today. A fabulous day !!.(EDIT by Don) Unfortunatly I did not recognise the lump on the side of road ahead as a pair of Feral ginger Cats, otherwise The Landy would have developed a sudden pull to the left !!!
Sunday 26th May, Richmond, QLD
Left Winton this morning just after 9am and took the Lansborough Highway to Cloncurry. The sun
shone golden on the grasslands in the morning light and highlighted the beautiful countryside around
Winton. The Ayrshire Hills, large sandstone escarpments are not unlike those sandstone shapes seen
in Arizona or the Badlands in South Dakota. Australia has some of the oldest landmass in the world and
although rich in biodiversity, its soil is among the most nutrient poor in the world with only 6% of the landmass
arable. This is mainly due to the country's geological stability, lacking any significant seismic activity. Hence
Australia is one of the world's least densely populated countries. Outback, really means Outback with more than
80 per cent of Australians living within 100 kms of the coast.
We had to smile as we passed a sign along the way reading…
…..McDonalds….460km to Mt Isa….It's worth the wait. McDonald's??? Such a distant memory………
Sad to see a lot of road-kill again along this Highway. We were happy to turn off after 80 kms and head North on
the Winton-Richmond Road, a dirt track that proved to have the most variable road conditions we have encountered
to date. Good, smooth, wide dirt followed by rough corrugations, then a short strip of excellent sealed track two lane
wide, followed by an extremely rough one track sealed but with half the bitumen missing and huge holes in its place.
Long strips of bitumen broken by short gravel over Floodways or long strips of gravel broken by short tar over Floodways.
Definitely a track that needed concentration.
Here we encountered a comical scene put together by some enterprising comedian; a stuffed figure fully clothed seated
on a chair supposedly watching TV complete with remote. Laughter is such a universal language. Well done to the comedian.
Whilst we were stopped here, Don took the opportunity to check his latest 'must have'….a set of digitised valve caps (TPMS) that
give a read-out of each tyres PSI. The screen of course, is mounted within reach and eye level of the driver along with the many
other assorted instruments that grace the front cabin of the Landy. Before 'take-off' each morning, it's almost like being seated in
the cockpit of a Jumbo Jet, going through the check list of all the instruments whilst the engine is warming up. People may think
my job as Navigator is an easy one, believe me…..the maps and routes are the easy things. My 'monitor' jobs increase daily.
It was interesting to note the 'Party Line' poles, some still standing, some leaning and some completely gone. The 'Party Line' was
the telephone system that was used in this area up until the 1980s. This consisted of a single wire on cypress pine poles and was
a shared service between two or more parties. No secrets in those days!
We reached the Flinders Highway and turned East for Richmond. The Park is Council run and is situated beside Lake Fred Tritton. Yes…..a lake !! What a surprise. We'll look forward to taking a walk around that before we leave.
Monday 27th May, Richmond, QLD
Another beautiful day of sunshine and another Dinosaur Museum, only this time the fossils mainly concentrated on Marine Dinosaurs.
You might think that after seeing one Dinosaur Museum it would
be enough but each of the Museums we have visited have been professionally presented and of
exceptionally high quality both with their exhibits display, the buildings they are housed in and the
information that has been made available.Today's Kronosaurus Korner Museum was no exception. Greeting you out the front is a life-size replica of the Kronosaurus Queenslandicus, a short-necked Pilosaur with a head over 2 meters long and four massive flippers up to 2 meters in length. Very few of these Marine creatures have been found and most from this region. Kronosaurus was a carnivore and would have been the top predator of the time, feeding on large fish, squid, turtles, ammonoids and probably smaller Kronosaurs.
Another quite amazing exhibit was the almost complete fossil of the Minmi, an armoured, plant eating Dinosaur discovered
near Richmond in 1989. A local Grazier discovered it whilst mustering cattle on his family property. It is Australia's best
preserved Dinosaur skeleton and one of the most important of its kind in the world. This individual was found lying on its
back with most of its bones still joined together. The Minmi lived about 100 million years ago. How amazing that it was found
with its fossilised skin still intact after 100 million years !! Can you imagine the Grazier's heart-stopping moment when he saw
this fossil's teeth still intact in its jaw, protruding from the muddy bank. What a great moment for him.
Richmond is also home to the unique Moon Rocks that are scattered about the town. Many of these Moon Rocks have fossils
lodged inside; one being an almost complete head of a Marine Dinosaur. These nodules are naturally formed in the mud on the
ancient sea floor from Calcium Carbonate and are not water worn. They range from the size of a golf ball to boulders weighing
several tons. It is only because of Australia's unique weathering and lack of seismic activity that has allowed the ancient sea floor
to give up its long held secrets.
Richmond is quite small with not many shops at all in the Main Street. Sighting a large freight train we headed up to the rail crossing to wait for it to pass. It came very slowly towards us, heaving its heavy load up the rise, this gave us a great opportunity to have a good look at it and take some pics. There are certain things you just can't seem to get enough of…….trains are definitely one of them. They hold a certain fascination that is hard to resist.
With such a beautiful day, the lake was definitely the place to check out next. Although fishing is one of the major attractions, with the lake stocked with a huge variety of fish including barramundi and redclaw, Don was not tempted today. He heard a guy say that he had just caught a huge barramundi. "Well, drop your line in" I said encouragingly. "No, I don't think so" he replied, "What will I do if I catch a big fish? What am I going to do with it? I'll have to chop it up, gut it, scale it and then what? There will be too much for us to eat." mmmmmm Guess he has a point. Perhaps we'll start with the smaller river fish. Somewhere where seasoned fisherman are not watching when he hauls his first catch out of the water. I can understand a guy needing privacy at a time like that.
Tuesday 28th May, Croydon, QLD
We left Richmond at 0830, turning North on the Cattle Corridor Byway headed for Croydon, which is approx 400 km
North on the Gulf Developmental Road (Savannah Way). About 12 kms on, we came to a Fossil Dig Site.
Not having any experience as 'fossil hunters', we ventured into the Dig Site more out of curiosity than to dig
for fossils. This is best left to the people who know what they are looking for, or who at least those who have
enough interest in digging for fossils to put in the time and effort. We would probably be clumsy enough to
make a major find and not knowing it, toss it away on the mullock heap. What we did find however, was an
amazing insight into the ancient history of this land; for as we crunched our way across the dig, the sand beneath
our feet 'scrunched' and broke up. 
It was shale encrusted with shells, not just one or two but throughout the entire area.
This may not seem that unusual but it certainly was a 'light-bulb' moment as we stood on the ancient sea-floor. There is
no better way to 'understand' the knowledge you gain than to experience it first-hand. We made a pathetic attempt to
turn over a few rocks and look for fossils but not really knowing what we were doing, we decided to push on. Once back
in the car, Don sheepishly showed me his 'discovery'…….it definitely looked like a fossilised leaf to me but then again, it
could have been just the way the mud had formed. We decided to hang on to it as a 'memento'. I don't think any Museum
is missing out on a major find.
We continued on, passing more 'dig sites' and a lot of cattle, definitely an aptly named route. The cattle we saw along this
route are much thinner than we had seen in the Channel Country. Some had their ribs clearly visible and were not glossy
like their more Southern cousins. This track was sealed for about the first 50 kms then varied greatly in its condition but proved
to be a most interesting route.
We stopped at the Old Cambridge Ruins, situated near Cambridge Crossing on the Stawell River.
The ruins of the original homestead were overgrown but still visible, nearby was an old traction engine, an old windmill and a large
quantity of moon rocks seen in abundance in this area. Stawell River was wide and dry with tons of thick sand on the river bed. This
river must be quite mighty when in full flood.
Luck was in again as we saw an unfortunate carcass on the road and found an eagle standing over it. Once again it did not fly off when we
approached nor when we slowed to a stop, instead hopping only a few feet away and waiting for us to leave. What magnificent birds
these are. The track was in poor condition for long stretches, varying from corrugations to bull dust but never lacked interest. The ant hills
became more numerous, more conical and a lot taller, covering vast areas either side of the track, a definite sign that you are in the Northern
Outback. We stopped for a coffee break about 1130 and took the opportunity to have a closer look at the ant hills. Don took some amazing photos of
the frantic ant activity about the nest entrance but was having trouble getting a good focus being wary of ants starting to crawl up his legs.
I was pleased to spot another Kakadu Stork at a small water-hole, as I had missed
getting a photo of one earlier. They are quite beautiful birds with their glossy iridescent blue neck and wing feathers and their long, graceful orange
legs.
More road-works, more dry river crossings and more cattle. We have had no trouble with cattle to date, with them moving slowly if not reluctantly
off the road as we approach but one particular cow, suddenly bolted out in front of us just as we had passed her. She actually came from behind as
we were beginning to gather speed.
We can understand how a large truck would have no chance of avoiding this situation and hitting her. 
We were
still talking about this when a Ruso Deer crossed the road in front of us. I knew we were in the far North but a reindeer? It seemed extremely odd.
We came across a small track leading to an abandoned mine and turned off to find a spot to have lunch. As we were moving slowly down the track I
turned to my right and was surprised to find 12 wild horses galloping towards us. What a magnificent sight. They galloped straight across the track in
front of us. One moment they were there, next minute they were gone. I was lucky to grab my camera and capture the moment.
Wednesday 29th, Croydon, QLD
Croydon is a very small town (or village should I say) but it has a nice charm about it. It is a very old community
and has been through a lot of changes during its inception but seems to have weathered the changes very well.
After a quick drive around the community we opted to have lunch in the Croydon General Store, the longest
continuously running store in QLD, built in 1894. 
This indeed was a genuine walk-back in time. The high square
wooden pigeon holes behind the counter, that used to be seen in all the old stores, were still intact as they had been
since they were first erected. The old wooden floor was worn smooth from the many steps that had trodden its boards.
The tin containers were now rusted and dinted, their labels faded and torn and hardly legible but still managed to evoke that faint warm feeling of nostalgia. I glanced up to the top shelf at the large, square Arnott's Biscuits tin, now hardly recognisable in its rusted state but smiled when I recalled a long distant memory. When I first started Primary School, the Tuck Shop across the road held many delights, one of them being those lovely biscuits that used to sit on the top shelf in a tin just like this one. I would rummage in my pocket for the two pennies I had saved and ask eagerly for 2d worth of broken biscuits. These would be placed in a brown paper bag, to be munched on later as I walked home. The creaky floor boards, the large heavy safe, the rough hewn timber, this was no 'renovated' antique, it was the genuine article. A great place to browse while you are waiting for lunch.
After lunch we headed down to the Railway Station. Our luck was in again, as the Gulflander was scheduled to arrive. This is a
rail service from Normanton - Croydon which departs Normanton and arrives in Croydon at about 1330 each Wednesday, staying
overnight then returning to Normanton on Thursday. If we had arrived one day later we would have missed it. The Railway Station
consists of a steel replica of the original timber structure. There is no platform, the rail-track just runs through the centre of the steel 'shed'.
Steps have to be lowered when alighting from the train. The track itself is the only line in Queensland still measured in miles and is heritage
listed. The line was never connected to the State Rail Network and is said to go from 'No-where to No-where'. This Normanton to Croydon
line is the only one of its kind in the world; with an innovative sleeper design, seasonal flood waters flow over the line to lessen flood damage.
Testament to the ingenuity of this design is that today much of the line is still the original rail and sleepers laid between 1888 and 1891.
It is quite large with extensive landscaping on the
foreshore, which is still being carried out. The shaded picnic tables have been cleverly designed to maximise the views of the lake, with a
boat ramp, pontoon, free electric BBQs and all year round fishing plus boating, canoeing, bird watching and a children's playground. There is
also toilets and shower facilities as well as a bird hide. 
Quite amazing for such a small place. We had to really tear ourselves away from here
as it was so pleasant sitting at the picnic table under the shade with a cool breeze giving welcome relief from the 33° heat. But move we did,
stopping at the Lookout over-looking the town before driving down to the Chinese Temple Site on the edge of town. The information plaques
located around the walk-way were excellent in providing an insight into the personal lives of the Chinese community that lived in Croydon during
the late 1800's.
The entry is FREE. The doors are open to walk through at your leisure. The entry to the Chinese Temple Site? The entry is FREE. And don't forget the
FREE electric BBQs at the beautiful Lake Belmore, the FREE Tennis day or night with racquet and balls supplied, FREE Lawn Bowls and FREE Internet
at the Croydon Shire Library. It seems to resonate a familiar pattern to me. The people that have the least, seem to give the most.
Well done Croydon. Your beautiful little town and the hard work that has been put into presenting it has been fully appreciated by us.
Thursday 30th May, Karumba, QLD
We decided this morning, rather reluctantly, to move on from Croydon and head North to Normanton,
148 km NW. We could easily have stayed another couple of days here but the thought of seeing that
bright blue of the Gulf was too much of a pull. We refuelled then left Croydon about 0830 and headed
NW along the Savannah Way. It seemed quite strange to be travelling along a sealed road with white
lines down the middle after sticking to the dirt tracks most of the way. Although the road was sealed, the
cattle still had right of way on this route. We were careful to slow down so as not to scare them and
make them have to run, as they looked very thin. …. (beware sign: cows eat cars ?)
We weren't far out of Croydon when we passed the Gulflander heading back to Normanton. We slowed to
get a pic and the driver blew his horn and waved. It is only an engine plus one carriage and looks quite nifty
as it zooms along the track. The rail track itself looks rather odd as it runs flat along the grass; it has no ballast.
We presume because of the steel rail sleepers. But this also has its draw-back as it makes it easy for cattle or
wildlife to cross over the track. As the Gulflander only travels during the daylight hours this may not be a problem.
We stopped off at the Blackall Railway Siding, a destination stop from Normanton and back for day trippers. Not
much here but a toilet block and a small 'shelter shed'.
Other than cattle we saw no wildlife at all along this route except Brolgas, which were extremely numerous and quite a few other bird species. The Brolgas are non-migratory but move to different areas in response to seasonal rains. Their large numbers are quite common in this area during the dry season. The Brolgas seemed quite a bit smaller than the ones we have seen further South.
We arrived in Normanton just on 1100 but decided to keep going to Karumba, which was only about 72 kms further on.
We were unsure of what sort of town Karumba was but we were both looking forward to seeing the beautiful blue of the Gulf.
It was just before Noon when we arrived in Karumba, our necks craning to get that first glimpse of the water. We realised just
how popular it is here for fishing as we drove into the town and sighted boats parked liked cars. Not just little boats but huge
boats parked in people's backyards. Being unfamiliar with Northern Queensland we booked into a Park and grabbed as many
brochures as we could. We set up quickly, then headed out to Karumba Point where a local fish and chip shop had been given
the thumbs up. After finishing a really good serve of fish & chips we headed across the road to take a look at the water.
perfectly formed and unbroken. I stooped and picked it up to show Don when suddenly these little legs appeared from inside; it was
a tiny Hermit Crab. Each time we turned the shell over he would flip it back and try to run off along Don's hand. We put him back down
and continued our walk along the shore. "Come look at this!" Don shouted. There in front of us the sand seemed to be moving in all
directions. Looking closer we saw shells of all shapes and sizes being moved along at quite a reasonable pace by these little Hermit
Crabs. Some were even scurrying along with broken shells to cover them. The funniest were the long, curly cone-shaped shells that
had little legs sticking out the front pulling them along behind. With the temperature hitting 42° we made our way back to the Landy and
the welcome relief of the 'U Beaut' Air Con that Don installed. With this on full blast, we took a look around the town and down around
the Port Area and the Livestock Export Loading Facility before heading back to camp.
Friday 31st May, Karumba, QLD
A lazy start today. We awoke early and just pottered about until lunch-time then headed
to the Sunset Tavern at Karumba Point for lunch. The Tavern is situated right above the
foreshore, with wide open doors on all sides and a cool breeze blowing through. There
are tables and chairs on the lawn outside over-looking the water, shaded by trees, making
it very pleasant to sit outside. It took us about 20 mins to read through the extensive menu written on a board on the wall. There must have been at least 50 different selections, ranging from a Caesar Salad to Beef Cheeks in Red Wine. Of course fish was a main feature on the Menu and as the saying goes, when in Rome……..so being in a fishing village we couldn't go past ordering the fish. Don was anxious to see what a real Barramundi tasted like. The prices were comparative to any good restaurant and the quality was on par also. We sat outside under the trees and enjoyed our meal. The sunshine, the palm trees, the blue of the water, the quietness, it was a most pleasant situation.
After lunch, we wandered along the shore to where there were a few fisherman casting their lines
from the shore. We sat on the rocks and watched them for awhile and were intrigued to see one of
them toss back the last three fish he caught. 
There was a Pelican swimming right up near the shore
just waiting for a bit of a hand-out, so instead of tossing back the last fish, he tossed it over towards
the Pelican. I ventured closer with my camera as the Pelican attempted to pick it up without success.
It turned out these three fish were Catfish, definitely not what the fisherman wanted in his basket. So
far this guy had caught 13 Bream and one other (I've forgotten the name). He hauled his net in where
it had been laying in the shallows and emptied it out. Don could only look on enviously as the fish fell
out and flapped about on the sand. One fish, just one little fish. I can't wait for Don to hook his first one.
It was so nice there on the foreshore; I almost felt guilty being there, feeling so good. We sat and watched
the boats on the water for awhile, took a few more pics then headed back towards camp. I thought in a beautiful
place like this I could escape the next stop,
but no, Don had spotted the local tip and without hesitation we were
heading up the dirt track to this 'must not miss' attraction.
Don jumped out excitedly exclaiming…"Look, an ATM."
'Yesssss, just what I was hoping I would see here', I thought but just smiled encouragingly as he snapped away
with his camera. "Look here" he yelled, "a working generator". Wow, I could hardly contain my excitement. Smiling
and looking interested was a bit difficult when I was holding my nose, but I tried. Don hopped back in the car and we
continued back to camp. What a shame we had to leave so soon. (I would never admit that I enjoyed going to the tip also).
The water looks so inviting but we've seen no-one swimming, perhaps its because there's been a few crocodiles sighted in the area down near the boat ramp.